Hi everyone! I decided to share my story/thought, which is simply titled: Surfing is good for you!”

Sports

I have always loved sport and I have always asked myself why, I wanted to understand the reason for this intense passion.

I gave myself various answers but certainly over the years my interest/pleasure in sporting activities has changed a lot and evolved based on my lifestyle, the priorities I gave myself, but, even more so, it changed together with awareness of myself and how I perceived the world around me.

My relationship with competition

As a child it made me feel strong, it put me in competition with my peers and above all it was a way to make my parents proud.
As I grew up I also began to feel the benefits of having an optimal physical shape, but, basically, it always remained a competition with others and with myself. I didn't really enjoy the moment when I was running, cycling, paddling, climbing, or any other activity you can think of: it was and remained a challenge, a competition.

I'll tell you how everything changed!

Then, however, something happens that suddenly upsets my state of mind and the perception of what I was doing. About 10 years ago I discovered surfing, I discovered it by chance and today it is absolutely my favorite sport, and I would like to explain to you why I love it so much and why it changed my life.

Contact with nature

Nature is alive, the energy you feel released by the waves is indescribable. Unlike other sports where you are the one who actively "crosses" nature, in surfing you are the one who "passively" has to connect with it and understand when the right time is to start dancing, you are the one who follows its rhythm.
Once you leave, you never go back: it's energy that pushes you forward and every second seems to last an eternity.
You enjoy that moment and savor it fully, and if you're lucky enough to surf without a wetsuit, then everything becomes even more alive: you feel the water caressing your skin and it's a unique sensation.

“Detached” from the ground

When you surf, at that moment, you are disconnected from the earth, where your whole life takes place: it's like putting your phone on airplane mode and leaving it at home!

Yes, exactly, you rediscover yourself and get rid of what you don't need, especially your phone, you leave it at the surf camp because you don't need it here, you really don't want it.

You are completely immersed in the element that perhaps belongs to us the most, water. The wild one, with its own life and its own energy, which in that moment is allowing you to ride it and make you feel part of it!

The silence

When you surf there is silence, and by silence I mean that you don't hear all those annoying man-made noises. Even if other sports give you this, in surfing I find it so special that it makes that detachment even purer and more intense. If you then decide to surf at sunrise or sunset, you reach unimaginable levels of contemplation, all the elements combine magically, you feel part of this whole thing, and you experience sensations so intense that only if you live them can you understand them...

What I learned

In those moments I learned to open my eyes and see what the rest of the world blurred. I learned to smell smells, those that the rest of the world made unrecognizable.

I learned to listen to the silence, what the rest of the world tended to cover. And then, lastly, certainly not least, I no longer feel the need to compete with anyone, especially with myself: I am totally present in what I am experiencing without having to prove anything, neither to others, nor to myself. same.

Conclusion

I could talk for hours and hours about what I feel when I'm surfing and everything that revolves around this magnificent sport, but, in the end, what was really important for me in approaching this sport was that it allowed me to understand how essential it is to be present in every moment of our life, to savor it to the fullest, not only when you are surfing in a costume, at sunset, in a magnificent place, but above all in everyday life where too often I miss moments that will never return !

I want to face every day as if I were surfing on my favorite beach, I don't want to miss even a second of this life anymore!

Thanks for listening to me and I hope that when I launch my surf clothing line you will be my customers… of course, I'm joking!

Have a nice life and hope to meet you all soon, maybe let's go surfing!

Luca